Riding Giants takes us along surfing’s timeline
from it’s early Polynesian roots, to its rebirth in the early
20th Century, to the development of a fledgling surf culture along
the coast of Southern California in the 1940s highlighting the group
of extraordinary adventurers that emerged: surfers who, not satisfied
with the mere recreational and social aspects of the sport, began
searching for bigger and bigger waves, pushing the boundaries of
performance to explore the “unridden realm.”
Riding Giants is the story of these big wave riders, of where and
how their quest began, of the classic characters who throughout
the eras chased their dreams out into the blue water, and who still
do today, riding 50, 60 and even 70 foot waves in a manner once
considered the realm of fantasy.
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